Monday, February 27, 2017

2/15/17 - 2/27/17 Topolobampo & Copper Canyon

2/15/17
We took off for the north island and anchored overnight.




2/16/17
A wind storm is forecast for the weekend so we crossed the Sea of Cortez toward Topolobampo in the calmer weather. We plan to visit the famous Copper Canyon by rail.

 This is the plaza near the marina



2/18/2017
Lots of wind and rain today in the marina here in Topo.  We were very glad to have arrived before the storm and made sure things were secured before our little side trip.

2/19/2017
The cab arrived at 5 am to take us to Los Mochis and the Chepe train station.
It is a nice train

The train ride was spectacular! The guide book claims Copper Canyon is a system of 20 canyons covering 25 square miles (four times larger than the Grand Canyon back home) with a depth of 6,100 feet.



We saw the Tarahumara, an indigenous people retaining their traditional ways, selling their native arts and crafts at the train stops.


Here is a panoramic view from the hotel grounds.  The canyon is 5700-feet deep here.

2/20/2017

We returned by train late tonight and took a cab to the marina from Los Mochis.  The gate to the Marina was locked so Rob decided to climb over.  The cab driver and I boosted him up, He swung his legs over the 10 foot gate and dropped down on the other side.  OOoopps!  Landed on his phone. Yes, we’ve come to depend on these smart phones even more traveling in a Spanish speaking country…for maps and sentences to be translated. Getting a new phone for him will be another adventure.

2/27/2017
We each caught a nasty cold and have been laying around all week feeling sorry for ourselves.

Next stop Mazatlan

2/3/17 - 2/5/17 Diving Cabo Pulmo

2/3/17
We returned to La Paz so we could re-provision and take a road trip to Cabo Pulmo and dive that famous reef.


2/4/17
Weather dictated the best diving day would be Sunday Feb 5th so we grabbed all our diving gear including our diving map and took off in a rental car.  The map showed a likely route of paved roads and highways with the last bit as a gravel road.  However, the paved highway along the coast turned out to be soft beach sand (in which we were stuck for 15 minutes) and the rustic dirt road shown on the map turned out to be a paved road! We arrived in time to reserve our dive and enjoy a wonderful meal.

2/5/2017
The dives were fantastic! We saw 5 large (4 to 6 feet in length) Green Eels on the move! They look so cool when they are swimming, the upper and lowers fins rippling as the body snakes.  There were also several large Groupers, Giant Parrotfish, huge Green Turtles, Cortez Angelfish, Mexican Wrasse, Sargent Majors, and some beautiful corals.  This is the only hard coral reef in North America on the Pacific side.  We were glad we saw it even though the visibility was less than ideal.
Our underwater camera just stopped working after Rob took the first photo….bummer.


Puffer fish, relaxed and happy

Diving at Isla Esprito Santos

1/23/17
We left Marina Palmira today and set sail for the islands. This morning’s weather report forcasts windy weather starting Wednesday and lasting for about a week. So, we chose a cove anchorage on Isla Espiritu Santa, Raza Bay which has some protection from the north wind.



1/24/17
We assembled the hooka and all the dive equipment in the dinghy and dove along Isla Gallo. 

It was a great dive! We saw a bullseye stingray hiding in the sand.  When Rob pointed him out, he took off and sped away as only stingrays can! Zillions and zillions of tiny baby fishes were hanging in the water making the water feel thick!  I had never before encountered Cortez Angelfish 12 to 14 inches tall and long with their yellow and blue bodies, but we saw some wonderful pairs and groups of them during this dive.  They are somewhat curious and one was swimming close to my face for at least 5 minutes of the dive!  Rob says their faces remind him of monkeys. We saw Yellowtail Surgeonfish, Convict Tangs, Balloonfish, Guineafowl Puffers, and many more that I couldn’t identify.

Here is a video that shows the tiny baby fish


1/25/17 – 1/29/17
Too windy to dive so we stayed anchored and enjoyed our picturesque bay. I spotted two green turtles swimming just under the surface of the water. And on another occasion, Rob saw a turtle.  We wondered whether they might be headed for the mangroves and sand at the end of the bay to lay their eggs?

1/30/17
The windy conditions finally calmed down and turned ideal, so we dove the north point of Raza bay today.  It was a gorgeous dive with Cortez Angels, two huge Giant Hawkfishes, Yellow Snapper, schools of juvenile Yellowtails, Amberjacks, Giant Damselfish, even a couple of Groupers! Our maximum depth was 40 feet and the dive lasted 55 minutes. On the rocks we saw two crabs as we got back into the dinghy.  The red crab was as big as Rob’s hand and was winking at us. The gray crab was as large as my hand and running away sideways up the rock.


1/31/17
Today is Jessica’s birthday.  Happy birthday Jessica!

We moved from Raza Bay on Isla Espiritu Santo to El Cardoncito on Isla Partida because there is a reef close by at the south of the bay we want to dive tomorrow. It’s a bit windier here than the super clam Raza Bay we left this morning.  But the anchorage is stunningly beautiful and rugged with salmon and pink rock walls and a small white sand beach.



2/1/17
We had fantastic dive, 50 minutes with a maximum depth of 48 feet, on the rocky reef lying just below the water line or peeking up when it’s low tide. We started on the sunny south side and went around the entire reef.  We saw zillions of infant fish again. The visibility is not great due to how many tiny, almost transparent, babies are packed into the water here! Typical damsel fish are small (about the size of your toe) and bright electric blue.  Despite their small size, they are extremely territorial and will stare you down if you look at their space. In addition to these, there is a species here, the Giant Damsel (big as a finger) and beautiful electric blue and yellow! We saw both today.  



2/2/17
We dove the north end of our small bay today.  It was another great dive, 55 minutes maximum depth of 44 feet. We saw Cortez Angelfish in better light.  Their faces are blue-grey with thick blue frowning lips and serious bad-boy expressions! Rob asked, “Why are they called Angelfish? They look more like devils!”

rob finds the coral fascinating

lots of starfish 

 starfish had something under it

starfish on a shellfish